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Shirt weaves and why they matter

Weaves

Part of the pleasure of wearing shirts is realising the scope of possibility. Each grade of yarn results in different lightness and clarity. Each weave creates a different cloth, which has its own handle, texture, fluidity and way of taking colour. Pink is obsessed with these differences, and what it means for wearing shirts today. We believe part of the pleasure of wearing shirts is understanding how they are made, right down to the weaves itself. Here we break down the main constructions of cloth, so that as you build your shirt wardrobe, you can do so as a true connoisseur.

Pink Shirtmaker's fabric weaves
Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Poplin

Poplin

The classic shirt weave that creates the perfect crisp fabric. It’s all about balance, with the same number of ends and picks per centimetre.The result is cloth of purposeful consistency of finish and shade.

Oxford

The Oxford is all about refined texture. It’s a hopsack weave that uses two warp ends and a single weft end. It’s a subtle difference that created a definite effect on the structure and feel of the cloth.

Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Oxford
Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - End on End

End on End

This version of a poplin adds in two more coloured yarns alternated in the weft. The effect is to give the colour slightly more depth: from a distance a plain shirt may look the same, but up close the weave has like a criss-cross detail.

Twill

A regular twill is woven on a 45 degree angle, resulting in a diagonal pattern and creating a classic cloth that's slightly thicker than a poplin.

Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Twill
Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Herringbone

Herringbone

This zig-zag pattern is created with a reversed broken twill, making a wave effect like a constantly repeating “W”. The herringbone is a much-loved shirt pattern that’s actually in the weave of the cloth itself.

Pinpoint Oxford

This fine Oxford is made from a finer yarn that’s more densely packed. The Pinpoint Oxford is more likely found on a casual shirt, more likely weekend than office.

Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Pinpoint Oxford
Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Chambray

Chambray

The Chambray is made from the same weave as a poplin, but with a coloured warp and a white weft. The effect is for the white yarn to catch the light, creating an iridescence in the cloth and a new depth of shade.

Royal Oxford

This Oxford is slightly larger in its weave, with more lustre in the finish, resulting in a formal cloth with sheen.

Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Royal Oxford
Pink Shirtmaker cotton weaves - Dobby

Dobby

With a dobby, the weave creates the design. Most feature a small geometric design that’s been interlaced with the weave structure, most likely a poplin. It’s a cloth that really shows the pleasure and play that can come from weaving.